Yosemite National Park, CA
After our all too brief detour to see Muir Woods, Matt and I got back on the road and headed east towards our next stop: Yosemite National Park. Along the way we stopped off at an outlet mall to pick up some additional warm weather clothing (London had not prepared us for the California warmth!) and some lunch. That meant that we were a little pressed for time when we arrived at the park as the sun was already beginning to set. Luckily we managed to catch the last of the daylight as it glinted off the waterfalls and cast long shadows over the meadows.
The drive into Yosemite takes you back in time as you imagine how little the area has changed since it became a national park in 1890. The lack of street lights and other sources of light pollution left us feeling like early pioneers feeling our way through the darkness. In particular, the views from the top of the ridges were spectacular and I found myself humming "America the Beautiful" absentmindedly as I navigated the twists and turns along Wawona Road. Despite the darkness and the three different suicidal deer, the drive to the hotel was relatively easy and we happily turned in for the night after enjoying a quick dinner in the hotel restaurant.
The next day, we got up relatively early and made our way back up to Yosemite Valley in order to see the sights in daylight. Specifically, I was on the hunt for "Tunnel View"- the iconic overlook first made famous by Ansel Adams in 1934. From this vantage point, you can see some of the most famous park landmarks: El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Falls. While we encountered a bit of traffic, we were still really glad we made the effort to see it properly.
After spending about twenty minutes enjoying the view, we hopped in the car and headed back to our hotel. The drive was exactly the same as we had experienced the night before but it was amazing to see what a difference day light makes! I hadn't even noticed that the road runs along the river for part of the way so we had to stop and check it out. The water is so incredibly clear! Even though there were a few other people milling around, the whole experience was so tranquil that it was hard for us to get moving again.
But, we persevered! Over breakfast, one of the staff members had suggested we hike over to Swinging Bridge - a local Wawona attraction. Since it was a fairly easy hike and went through some lovely scenery, we thought that would be a perfect little adventure that would still leave our day mostly free to relax. On our way to the trail head, we stopped into the Wawona General Store for snacks and discovered it was located right next to the Pioneer Yosemite History Center.
The center includes an incredible collection of pioneer artifacts - from carriages to actual buildings. Stretching across both sides of the river, this was a lovely detour for a leisurely stroll. The buildings can be reached by crossing a slightly spooky covered bridge so when you exit, you feel like you've stepped back in time and into an early town. The buildings ranged from single story homes to larger early commercial buildings (including an example of a trading post and the "Yosemite Transport Company") and gave a nice sense of what life must have been like then.
After a quick walk through the carriages, we headed up to Swinging Bridge. The walk was pretty easy and we were fortunate to have it all to ourselves when we arrived. Given that the bridge looked mighty rickety when we approached, I graciously let Matt go first...
Fortunately, the bridge doesn't actually swing that much as you pass over the rapids below. On the other side, we meandered along the path for about half an hour before turning back to the bridge. Along the way, we passed the charred remnants of a small forest fire. While the landscape had already started to bounce back, there were still pieces of blackened trees scattered around that had clearly been chopped up by rangers.
Once back across the river, we noticed a man swimming in the river and thought that seemed like a fantastic idea. So we shuffled along the rocks until we found a comfortable spot and raced to get our toes in the water... Which was when we discovered that the water is deceptively cold! Absolutely freezing! We braved a few toes but ultimately just settled back to enjoy the sunshine on the rocks. We could have continued for hours but decided to head back to the hotel to spend some time relaxing on our porch since it was one of our few non-driving days.
I can't recommend this peaceful little spot enough - the whole time were were there, we only saw about a handful of people. I hadn't thought anything could improve on the tranquility of Muir Woods but Yosemite really is an impressive sight - the sheer scale of the park (over 747,000 acres) is mind boggling. Plus the park has something for everyone - hikes of every skill level, shops, restaurants, lodging, etc.
If we ever get another chance to visit, we'll definitely stay longer since two nights was just too short to really experience the majesty of this beautiful place. However, I would definitely break up our visit with a few nights in Yosemite Valley and a few nights in Wawona just to ensure we get the full experience since there were several hikes that were just too far for us to attempt on this trip.
Full Details:
Website: www.yosemite.com
Fees:
Admission is priced at either 7 days or 1 year and depend on your mode of travel. A 7 day pass will cost $15 (individual on foot, horseback or arriving by bus), $30 (individuals on motorcycles), or $35 (for automobiles). It's important to note that these prices are per vehicle, not per person.
A 1 year automobile pass is $70.
The other yearly pass offer great value if you are planning a roadtrip that will take in several national parks:
America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass (automobile) = $80
Finally, if you are a senior citizen (US citizen or permanent resident 62 years old or older), then you can purchase a lifetime pass that includes all US National Parks and Federal Recreation Areas for only $80.
